Tuesday, July 1, 2008

I was not born a follower...

Just when I think that I had the best day of my life, Tommy and Evan prove me wrong. On my way to meet the boys I call Tommy to let him know I am at starbucks and what kind of coffee do they want... It is within this phone call I find out that I am going to be leading a bit today. Was I more scared? No, I actually knew I was ready to learn this part of the sport, I was not scared of climbing anymore, that fear turned into respect and love for this art. I knew that we were going to walls that had 5.5s and really thats not much harder then the approach (slight exaggeration of course) so I knew I would be okay. I could not surpress my joy and it made the drive to Reimers Ranch that much longer.

Reimers is really a beautiful place. Im dumbfounded at how close I live to this little bit of paradise. I only saw a small portion of it, and I can not wait to discover more as I progress in this sport. Our first spot was sex cave for a boulder problem that Evan and Tommy are working on for the comp. They both did it and then Tommy says "okay your turn". Now ladies and gentlemen, I had at this point only 5 sport climbs.... now Tommy is telling me to hang upside down ? He must be insane, but he couldnt have been to insane because I did get my body off the ground and I did start to actually do it. However the ability was not there and I fell rather quick. I did like hanging upside down though, and it was really fun mentally to try to solve it before even getting up. It was a laydown start, in the dark, very interesting feeling that is. I dont know if I will become a "boulderer" however I do know that it will be fun to find out if this part of the sport is something I can achieve. So basically that means I will continue to try it until I can solve a few problems.

Next we approach to "dead cats wall" and to the 5.5 called "Lisa the puamatic 6000 Kitty". Tommy was going to set up top rope, have me follow and set up my quick draws (minus rope clipping) and then come down. I really liked this wall. The textures of the rock were smooth, and crisp yet a millon avaliable holds no matter which way I climbed. No problem getting up, no fear or freaking out whats so ever. Once I get down Tommy asked if I was ready to lead and yup, I was more then ready. I knew without a shadow of a doubt that I could lead this. We once again went over the difference in risks of a lead versus the follow and I was off. As I am making my way from bolt to bolt I realize that yes Im not going to be "the lead" for a long time, but dammit this is the most fun ever.....Each time I clip the rope in I feel power, each time I passed above it I started to mentally try to figure out how much Id fall including line stretch.

Remember this is only a 5.5 2 bolts 2 top anchors, so its pretty simple. That however does not take from it being my first lead. Evan got tons of pictures because at this point it is known that I want pictures of everything, from fresh morning dew to the setting of the sun and everything that happens between. There really was an outstanding feel to looking above me and not having the rope in my site.... it was truly just me and the rock. When the climb was complete I knew I was hooked (as if my last blog didnt represent that). It started to get out to the others on nearby routes that I just did my first lead and got about 3 congrats from the group next door.
Next we headed to "Clawing Zoe" 5.7 3 bolts 2 top anchors and again Tommy lead, I followed and clipped my quick draws, and came down. This was alot of fun to follow on. I did well, didnt use the rope at all and felt I was going to lead it well also. I did great the first three bolts. However as I was getting very close to the anchors I made a mistake of taking I high right foot where I should have done the high left. I was secure in my position but I could not figure out how to make it back to where I needed to be to anchor. I got scared, and when I say scared, what I really mean is I started to get upset, calling to Tommy that I couldnt do it, and wanting nothing more then to have them come up and change the position of the top anchors for me. I was yelling at the rock, I was pissed that I had failed, I couldnt figure out how far my fall would be, I had thought I passed the last bolt 6 feet ago but I might have been wrong....damn this stupid rock. I started hearing Tommys encouragement, and other voices of those I didnt know, I look back and on either side of tommy the groups climbing had stopped what they were doing and were watching and encouraging me. At that moment my legs stopped shaking and my arms stopped trembling and I figured it out, got anchor and told the rock "how do you like them apples" (Im a dork I know this) When I got back on the ground before I was even off the rope a man I didnt know told me "Wow you are a inspiration" I looked at Tommy and had to hug him, I then told the man thank you, Ive never heard that before and dammit if my ego isnt huge now. Damn best teacher in the world I have. When the group realized it was only my second day of outdoor climbing and I already was leading, the looks on their faces seemed shocked and wow factored. I asked Tommy "Am I moving to fast? Should I be leading?" Tommy replied "What do you think?" I thought about it, and said "no Im not"

Next was "Hissing Cloe" a 5.8 with 3 bolts. We were going to follow the same routine, Tommy top rope, me follow with quick draws, come down then men lead. It was a beautiful climb. This limestone has such a variety of feel, color and texture that each grip brings a new surprise visually and feel wise. However when I got back down I had to tell Tommy I cant lead it, I was to tired and there was a moment where I wanted to and almost needed him to take and I wont lead something when following it, I almost needed the rope, at least not yet. It was however a beautiful end to the sport climbing part of the day. That did not end the day, but my fingers, and my body just hurt to much today to continue to write. However the best part of my day happened after this, while Tommy and Evan made new problems of new boulders yet to be ascended....

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